Located in the Mococa district of São Paulo, Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza (FAF) was the first stop on my journey in Brazil. Along the way, I was able to explore first hand a number of Specialty Coffee producers, each of which has its own distinct characteristics.

Being able to visit coffee farms in person is a practice that sets our company apart and one we hold dear. Since the late 1990s, we have travelled directly to the countries of production and when we arrive, we not only visit the production areas, but meet individual farmers face to face too, establishing close ties with the experts cultivating the produce.

While we do not yet have a partnership with FAF, I wanted to learn more about a place renowned, not just for producing coffee, honey, corn and bananas, but for its unwavering commitment to sustainability goals too.

Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza over time

FAF has a captivating, deep-rooted history. Once known as Fazenda Fortaleza, the farm has been owned by the Barretto family since 1850. When Silvia Barretto and her husband Marcos Croce took over the running of the company, they decided to pursue their dreams and transform it into a bastion of sustainability. Silvia, a proud proponent of natural living, decided that a shift to organic farming was a must. In 2001, the shift began and the name was changed to Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza, which literally means Environmental Fortress Farm.

The transition to organic produce, however, was a difficult one, with output drastically reducing due to chemical use being discontinued altogether. That said, Silvia and Marcos came up with a fresh proposal: offering workers 50% ownership of the coffee they planted. As a result of this new approach, they were dubbed the “crazy farmers” of the region. Despite the challenges faced, in 2007, they exported their first container of coffee to the United States and in 2008, FAF won the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s sustainability award.

The FAF experience

Visiting Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza was like stepping into a whole new world. With the sound of chirping birds, humming insects and a sense of being at one with nature in the air, the beauty of this location is second to none. It was my great pleasure to meet Silvia, the passionate owner; Rafa, the operations director; João, an agronomist; Elen, a taster; and Felipe, a roaster. Each one shared with me an insight into what they do, making my visit truly unforgettable.

I also met João Hamilton and his wife Giuliana, long-time producers of Serra do Cigano coffee. Theirs is a truly heart-warming story: an area that, thanks to FAF’s support, has gone from having no infrastructure at all to being a fertile land home to 40 small producers of premium-quality natural coffee.

The “Lado a Lado” project

The “Lado a Lado” project developed by FAF allows its partners—450 small producers of specialty coffee—to benefit from the company’s agricultural experience and expertise. This initiative educates producers about nature-friendly farming techniques and the importance of cupping, thereby strengthening both the awareness and quality of their coffee.

Vegetarian eating and Protected Area

During my stay, I was thrilled by the all-vegetarian delights on offer, including the farm’s very own home-grown fruits and vegetables. I will never forget a particular dessert made with blended avocado, organic cane sugar and lime juice. The quality and freshness of the food were remarkable.

A part of the farm is protected land home to Primary Forest trees like the Jequitibá tree. This is a real treasure, particularly in a country like Brazil, dominated by Secondary Forests.

Coffee and Honey Ceremony

FAF produces both natural and pulped natural coffees, using advanced agroforestry techniques and organic, self-produced pesticides only. During the cupping session I took part in, I was able to admire FAF coffee’s plethora of aromas and flavours. Just a few years ago, this kind of variety was out of the question in Brazil.

The “honey ceremony” led by Silvia herself was an unforgettable experience. We tasted a number of Western honey-bee honeys produced by FAF and Amazonian Melipona-bee honeys, whose remarkably diverse range of flavours was nothing short of delightful.

It was a true delight to visit a pioneering farm like Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza. I would like to thank them for their warm hospitality and we hope to establish a partnership with them very soon. For me, this journey was not just valuable from a professional point of view but from a personal one too, as it gave me a real insight into how sustainable farming can make a difference in our world.